Friday, April 24th 2015
It's always such a privilege to watch the secretive goings on, pre-show backstage, The energy usually sets the tone of things to come and a house as detail oriented as Marchesa, with so many elements coming together to form the finished looks (trays of jewels in waiting, rows of incredibly diverse shoes, racks of breathtaking veils each destined for specific, corresponding gowns…and then there are the gowns themselves) it's fascinating & mesmerising to watch it all unfold & see a creative vision brought to life.
With a sense of waiting in opulent wings before an ethereal balletic production, willowy models sat backstage at Marchesa, (many buried deep in iPhones… one patiently knitting) while hair was pulled back into immaculately polished low buns that looped at the nape of the neck, (elongating further their already impossibly slender necks!). Delicate flicks of white eyeliner applied to otherwise supernatural faces completed the subtle swan like references, a daring look we loved, so perfect for Spring brides!
Although a hive of activity, flurries of hands tending to shoes and jewels, stitching the final few pearls onto belts or fastening show-stopping veils to hair (a triple check being overheard by one dresser that this was absolutely the correct veil for the correct gown and girl…it being no quick task to swap once fastened!) an aura of calm professionalism reigned supreme.
At showtime, swanlike models traipsed one by one through marble lined halls, each surrounded by an entourage to safely chaperone cascading hems and veils, or making final adjustments to hair.
For this year's show models were poised on elevated plinths, allowing guests and media a close up look at the artistry and craftsmanship involved in the collection. You can see our pictures from this beautiful presentation on The LANE Style Guide.
Photography: Karissa Fanning / The LANE
Tuesday, April 21st 2015
While a runway is the most perfect showcase to observe the movement, texture and the shimmering glide of an entirely sequinned gown or ethereal billow of featherweight silks…it's not until you experience an intimate viewing of a collection up close that the mind-blowing intricacy of a Jenny Packham dress is revealed. The style of embellishment she made famous (and is highly imitated by others), the iconic sequin motifs and Deco style beading…they all require a longer, completely unhurried look to properly appreciate the kind of work involved in each gown. This year, where detail was concerned, the 2016 collection did not disappoint.
We arrived for this year's show at a beautiful industrial warehouse space in the Meatpacking District - an all white, exposed bricked blank canvas which was the perfect contrast for embellished gowns. Running late from the previous show, we luckily caught the last part of the backstage preparations just in time (almost missing the actual show, we couldn't stop shooting the exquisite details!) where we unearthed botanical clusters of crystals, the hand application of a thousand cascading pearls and sequins along with several new techniques, like the unexpectedly raw cut silk arranged into hundreds of vertical body skimming layers, an entirely new fabric created.
Models backstage were made-up in the most dewy, serenely beautiful version of 'natural' you can imagine and loitered in relaxed fashion, styled with bouquets of effortlessly clustered, just-plucked-from-the-garden style roses and jasmine. Add to the mix Titania'esq corsages, loosely worn hair waved through mid sections and single blooms framing faces, the congregation of models waiting in the wings...
See our full review & personal pictures from Jenny Packham 2016 Bridal on the Style Guide.
Photography: Karissa Fanning / The LANE
Monday, April 20th 2015
The mood backstage before a runway collection is a curious thing…a sort of intangible, almost palpable energy that seems to flow from the designer to her team, to the models & to the clothes they wear before presenting to the audience itself. With a decidedly different atmosphere to other designers we saw, Mira Zwillinger felt a little effortless. The mood was relaxed, hair and makeup was serene and otherworldly, and while girls underwent transformations from mere mortals into celestial goddesses, the energy was one of elation as this exquisite collection was about to be unveiled.
Models clearly felt incredible in their gowns…an infectious energy that radiated from each girl down the runway. The soundtrack was pumping, a euphoric, suitably 'Stardust' inspired mix of favourites.
We were completely mesmerised by every dress in this collection… by far one of our favourite shows of the season. Take a look at our detailed coverage of the runway show on The LANE Style Guide. (more show reviews to come!)
Photography: Karissa Fanning