It’s that shock of beauty that you live for, as a creative. The kind of magic that gets under your skin. An inimitable aesthetic you can’t ever put your finger on.
In a sea of sameness at NY Bridal Week, the unpredictability of Naeem Khan is jolting. There’s no formula to his designs. What was wildly successful last year plays no part in what inspires him next. What he loved only months ago (veils), he loathed for this collection. Naeem Khan is an artist driven by experimentation who reinvigorates everything we love, about bridal fashion genre – it’s drama and diversity. The layering of fabrics that reveal a deeper narrative.
If there was one continuity we could pick from season to season, it is Naeem’s encyclopaedic knowledge of artisanal techniques that weave together his experimental collections. Fabrics sourced from every corner of the globe that become the starting point of each creation – shapes, textures and fabric movement that organically inform each design.
Embodying bohemianism in the truest sense of the word, Fall 2018 moved through every spectrum of cultural influence – traditional Japanese motifs, tiered African raffia skirts between panels of intricate embroidery, hand created 3D floral appliqué clashed with ornate beading, sequins woven over translucent tulle, ballet inspired ruching; a bold use of textures suffused with an impossible lightness, achieved through the most delicate of fabrics.
Known for his dramatic accoutrement, this season Naeem removed veils that played a focal part in his previous collection, replaced with undulating ribbons that cascaded from shoulders, floating behind gowns to imitating the movement of cathedral veils. Headpieces fringed with ornate metal beading were juxtaposed with crowns of flowers.
To finish, Naeem sends a collection of decadent cocktail gowns dancing down the runway – heavily beaded, 20’s inspired fringe details with iridescent metallics that move mesmerizingly. The perfect second dress for revelrous celebrations late into the night.
When Naeems show closes, there’s a shift in the room. A spark lit within every person privy to Naeem’s work. We overhear models in lifts trying to explain both his infectious presence backstage, and the way even those drawn to simple fabrics and minimalism, can’t help but be swept up in the magic of his ornate art. It’s couture detailing that season after season, elevates the world of bridal.
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